Philodendron 69686 Care: Growing ‘Bette Waterbury’ Indoors

Philodendron 69686 is a climbing aroid known for its unusual three-lobed leaves. The long central lobe, shorter side lobes and dark green foliage give it an appearance that is easy to recognize once you know what to look for.

The plant has also circulated among collectors under the name Big Ears. However, its published cultivar name is Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’. The number 69686 comes from a botanical specimen voucher, not from a species name.

Its history is interesting, but some details remain uncertain. The cultivated plant came from the collection of Brazilian landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, yet its original wild provenance and exact parentage have not been established. It is considered a putative hybrid, but there is no confirmed list of parent species.

Growing it indoors does not require an elaborate setup. Bright, indirect light, a loose potting mix, sensible watering and suitable climbing support provide a good starting point. The important thing is to understand that this is a climbing Philodendron, not a compact, self-heading plant.

This guide explains what is known about ‘Bette Waterbury’, how to recognize it, and how to care for it indoors without relying on unsupported claims about its growing requirements.

Philodendron 69686 at a glance

A note about the care recommendations: Thomas Croat’s 2022 paper provides the botanical description and cultivation history of ‘Bette Waterbury’. It does not report controlled indoor trials comparing light levels, watering schedules, humidity, fertilizers or propagation methods. The care advice below therefore draws on general horticultural guidance for Philodendrons and practical container-growing principles. It should not be mistaken for a set of experimentally established requirements for this particular cultivar.

What Philodendron 69686 actually is

The story behind the number and cultivar name

The number 69686 comes from the voucher reference T.B. Croat 69686 (MO), which identifies the cultivated specimen documented at the Missouri Botanical Garden. It is not a botanical species name or a formal cultivar name.

The plant was found in the collection of Brazilian landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx and introduced into cultivation in the United States by Bette Waterbury, the first president of the International Aroid Society. The Missouri Botanical Garden later received the plant from Waterbury.

In 2022, botanist Thomas B. Croat published the cultivar name Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ in the journal Aroideana. The name commemorates Waterbury’s role in bringing the plant into cultivation.

Before that publication, collectors had circulated the plant under the number 69686 and the informal trade designation Big Ears. Croat explained that neither designation had been formally established as a name.

This is why you may see different labels for the same cultivated plant. A seller may use Philodendron 69686, Big Ears or ‘Bette Waterbury’. The published cultivar name is ‘Bette Waterbury’.

What is known about its parentage?

Croat describes ‘Bette Waterbury’ as a putative hybrid similar to Philodendron × joepii. However, its exact parentage is unknown. The paper also states that its original provenance has not been established.

The connection with Roberto Burle Marx’s collection in Rio de Janeiro documents the plant’s history in cultivation. It does not prove that the plant naturally grows in a particular Brazilian rainforest or that Brazil is its confirmed native range.

It would therefore be misleading to describe ‘Bette Waterbury’ as a confirmed Brazilian wild species or to give it a specific natural habitat.

The original botanical paper is the best reference for these details: Thomas Croat’s 2022 description of Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ and Philodendron × joepii.

How to recognize Philodendron 69686

The leaf shape is the plant’s most noticeable feature. However, the petioles and the arrangement of the lobes also provide useful identification clues.

Three-lobed leaves

The leaves are deeply divided into three main sections. One long central lobe extends forward, while two shorter lateral lobes spread outward.

The central lobe is noticeably constricted near the point where it joins the side lobes. The lateral lobes also narrow toward their bases, giving the leaf a distinctive outline.

In Croat’s description, the lateral lobes spread at an angle of approximately 120 degrees. This helps explain the open shape that makes the foliage look somewhat like a pair of outstretched ears.

The botanical paper records a central lobe measuring about 32.5 cm long on the described specimen. That is a measurement from the documented plant, not a guaranteed leaf size or maximum for every cultivated example.

Leaf colour and texture

The upper leaf surface is dark green and semiglossy. The underside is slightly paler, with a similar subdued sheen.

The blades are described as subcoriaceous, meaning somewhat leathery rather than thin and papery. This gives the leaves a firmer feel than those of some delicate-looking Philodendrons.

Individual leaves can differ as the plant develops, so do not rely on colour alone when identifying it.

Petioles and stem

The petioles are dark green, cylindrical and weakly glossy. Croat also describes subtle ridges running around them, with small, closely spaced warty structures along those ridges.

These details are easy to overlook in a photograph, but they help distinguish the plant’s documented characteristics from a description based only on leaf shape.

The plant grows as a vine, producing elongated sections of stem between its leaves. It can also produce aerial roots along the stem, which are useful when the plant is growing against a support.

How it differs from Philodendron × joepii

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ and Philodendron × joepii can look similar, especially when viewed in photographs. Both have unusual, deeply divided leaves.

However, Croat’s description identifies some differences.

‘Bette Waterbury’ has a somewhat less complexly divided leaf blade. Its lateral lobes are described as consistently smooth along their margins. In P. × joepii, the posterior lobes have more irregular margins.

They are distinct plants, even though their leaf shapes invite comparison. Their parentage is also not equally documented: the botanical paper gives a presumed hybrid formula for P. × joepii, while the exact parentage of ‘Bette Waterbury’ remains unknown.

When buying the plant, check the leaf structure and, where possible, ask the seller about its source. A trade name by itself is not always enough to confirm an identification.

Understanding its climbing growth habit

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ grows as a climbing vine. It is not naturally a compact plant that forms a dense, upright rosette from a central growing point.

As the stem extends, new leaves emerge at successive nodes. Aerial roots may also appear along the stem. These roots help the plant attach to nearby surfaces when it climbs.

Without support, a growing stem may lean, spread sideways or rest against nearby objects. That does not automatically indicate poor health. It is a normal consequence of growing a climbing plant without a vertical structure.

A support gives the stem direction and helps keep the foliage organised. It can also make the plant easier to manage as it becomes taller.

Choosing a suitable climbing support

There is no single support that every grower must use. Choose one that suits the plant’s size, your available space and how you want to manage its aerial roots.

Moss pole: A sphagnum moss pole provides a textured surface that aerial roots may attach to. When the moss is kept appropriately moist, it can also provide moisture around the roots that grow into it. It needs occasional attention because the moss can dry out.

Coco coir pole: Coir poles offer a rough surface and physical support. They are useful for guiding a stem, although they usually hold less moisture than a moss-filled pole. Aerial roots may not grow into them in the same way.

Wooden board or trellis: A sturdy board or trellis can keep the vine upright and make it easier to direct the stems. This is a good option when you want support without having to keep a pole moist.

I would choose a support that can be extended as the plant grows. A short stake may be enough for a young cutting, but it can become inconvenient as the vine develops longer stems.

For another example of managing a climbing Philodendron indoors, see our Philodendron Whipple Way care guide. The two plants have different foliage, but both benefit from thoughtful stem support.

How to train the stem

Position the support close to the main stem when potting or repotting. If the plant is already established, avoid forcing the support through the root ball.

Use soft plant ties to guide the stem. Secure it loosely enough to allow the stem to thicken, and check the ties as new growth develops.

Do not bend a stiff, older section sharply to make it fit the pole. Older stems can crack when forced into a new direction. Guide younger growth gradually instead.

If aerial roots grow toward the support, allow them to attach naturally. Avoid pulling them away from the stem or forcing them into a dry pole.

A moss pole is helpful, but it is not essential for the plant to survive. It also does not guarantee larger leaves. Leaf development depends on several factors, including maturity, light, root health and the plant’s overall growing conditions.

Finding the right light indoors

Bright, indirect light is a sensible starting point for growing ‘Bette Waterbury’ indoors.

A position near a bright window often works well. An east-facing window may provide gentle morning light, while a bright south- or west-facing window may need a sheer curtain to reduce strong afternoon sun.

Direct sunlight through glass can scorch exposed foliage. Pale, bleached or brown patches on the side facing a window may point to excessive sun exposure, although other causes should also be considered.

Very dim conditions can slow growth. You may notice longer spaces between leaves, slower production of new foliage or smaller leaves than the plant previously produced.

These signs do not prove that low light is the problem. Root health, nutrition, maturity and recent changes in the growing environment can also affect growth.

If the plant has been growing in a dim position, move it to brighter conditions gradually. Sudden exposure to strong sunlight can damage foliage that has adapted to lower light.

I would favour a stable position with good filtered light rather than moving the plant repeatedly in an attempt to force faster growth.

For general Philodendron lighting guidance, see the Royal Horticultural Society’s guide to growing Philodendrons. Its recommendations apply to the genus rather than being a lighting trial on ‘Bette Waterbury’.

Choosing a potting mix that protects the roots

The roots need moisture, but they also need access to air. A dense medium that remains saturated for long periods can leave the roots short of oxygen and encourage root damage.

An extremely coarse mix can create the opposite problem by drying too quickly. This is more likely in a warm room, a small container or a position that receives strong light.

The aim is a mix that holds some moisture while allowing excess water to drain and air to move through the root zone.

A practical indoor mix can include:

These ingredients do not need to follow a fixed percentage. Adjust the mix according to how quickly it dries in your home, the size of the container and the plant’s root system.

For example, a plant in a warm room with good airflow may need a mix that holds a little more moisture. A plant in a cooler, dimmer position may do better in a mix that drains and dries more freely.

This is a practical indoor aroid mix, not a formula tested specifically on ‘Bette Waterbury’. The goal is to maintain a useful balance between moisture retention and drainage.

Avoid ordinary garden soil in a houseplant container. It may compact, drain poorly or hold too much water for the conditions inside the pot.

Choosing the right container

Use a container with drainage holes so excess water can leave the root zone.

The pot should accommodate the existing roots without leaving a large amount of unused growing medium around them. An oversized container can hold moisture for longer than a small root system can use it.

Terracotta and plastic pots can both work.

Terracotta allows moisture to escape through its walls, so the growing medium may dry more quickly. Plastic retains moisture for longer, which can be useful in a faster-drying environment but requires care if the mix already stays wet.

Neither material is automatically better. Choose according to your room conditions, potting mix and watering habits.

When repotting, a container only slightly larger than the root ball is usually a sensible choice. This reduces the amount of wet medium surrounding the roots.

Watering Philodendron 69686 without causing root problems

There is no reliable watering calendar that works for every ‘Bette Waterbury’. The time between waterings changes with light, temperature, pot size, growing medium and root development.

Instead of watering on a fixed day, check the pot.

Start with the upper portion of the mix. Once it has begun to dry, examine the moisture further down, especially if the container is deep. The aim is for the upper layer to be drier while the deeper root zone still has some moisture without remaining saturated.

A finger can help you check the surface and upper layer. A clean wooden stick pushed carefully into the medium can give you another indication of moisture lower in the pot. The pot’s weight is also useful: a container becomes lighter as the growing medium dries.

When the plant needs water:

1. Pour water slowly and evenly across the surface.
2. Allow it to reach the root zone.
3. Let excess water drain through the bottom.
4. Empty the saucer or outer container so the pot does not sit in standing water.

Avoid giving small splashes repeatedly just to keep the surface damp. This may leave some parts of the root ball dry while others remain wet.

Why watering needs change

Several things influence how quickly the pot dries.

Light: A plant in brighter conditions may use water faster than one in a dim position.

Temperature: Warm conditions can increase moisture loss, while cooler conditions may slow it down.

Pot size: A large container can hold more moisture, especially when the plant has a small root system.

Growing medium: A fine, moisture-retentive mix dries differently from a loose mix containing bark and perlite.

Season and indoor conditions: Growth may slow when light levels fall or temperatures drop. In a consistently warm, bright room, however, the plant may continue growing through the year.

Root development: A recently propagated cutting has a smaller root system and may use water differently from an established plant.

Do not respond to every drooping leaf by immediately watering. Both a dry root ball and damaged roots can cause wilting. Check the medium and roots before deciding what the plant needs.

Temperature, humidity and airflow

Like other tropical Philodendrons, ‘Bette Waterbury’ is best kept away from cold drafts and sudden temperature changes.

The Royal Horticultural Society recommends keeping Philodendrons above 15°C (59°F). This is general guidance for the genus, not a temperature limit established through a controlled trial on this cultivar.

Keep the plant away from cold windows during chilly weather, air-conditioning outlets and strong blasts of hot air from heaters.

Humidity is worth considering, but there is no established humidity percentage that ‘Bette Waterbury’ must reach to survive indoors.

The RHS notes that many Philodendrons can grow successfully in the average humidity found in homes. Higher humidity may help maintain comfortable conditions, but it does not compensate for poor light, damaged roots or unsuitable watering.

If the air is particularly dry, a humidifier can help maintain more stable conditions. Grouping plants together may also create a slightly more humid area.

Avoid leaving foliage constantly wet in an enclosed space with poor airflow. Good air movement helps reduce conditions that favour some fungal and bacterial problems.

Feeding and fertilizing

A balanced houseplant fertilizer can support active growth, but more fertilizer does not automatically produce larger leaves.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the product you use. The appropriate amount and frequency depend on the fertilizer concentration, the growing medium, the plant’s growth and the conditions in your home.

Feed when the plant is actively growing. Reduce or pause feeding when growth slows considerably, especially if light levels are low.

Excess fertilizer can cause salts to build up around the roots. This may damage root tips and contribute to brown leaf edges or poor growth.

If the plant is not growing well, check its light, root condition, watering and potting mix before assuming that it needs more fertilizer.

Avoid applying concentrated fertilizer to a dry or badly stressed root system. If the medium has accumulated fertilizer salts and drains freely, a thorough watering may help wash some of them out. Do not flush a container that cannot drain properly.

When should you repot?

Repot when the roots or growing medium show that the plant needs more room or a better environment. You do not need to repot simply because a certain number of months or years have passed.

Signs that repotting may be useful include:

• Roots densely filling the container.
• Roots emerging from several drainage openings.
• Potting mix that has broken down and become compacted.
• A root ball that dries unusually quickly because roots occupy most of the container.
• Water passing through the pot without properly wetting the root ball.

Move the plant into a slightly larger container and use fresh, airy growing medium.

If you want to add a climbing support, repotting can be a convenient time to position it. Take care not to damage healthy roots while doing so.

After repotting, return the plant to suitable indirect light. Avoid immediately applying a heavy dose of fertilizer, particularly if you disturbed the roots.

Pruning and general maintenance

Pruning is mainly useful for removing damaged foliage, managing the length of the vine or taking a healthy cutting for propagation.

Use clean, sharp pruning scissors. Wear gloves if you are sensitive to plant sap, and wash your hands after handling the cut stems.

Remove leaves that are fully dead or badly damaged. An occasional older leaf turning yellow is part of normal plant development, so there is no need to remove every leaf that changes colour.

If the vine becomes longer than your available space, you can shorten a healthy stem by cutting near a node. That section may also provide a propagation cutting if it contains a viable node.

Wipe dust from the leaves with a soft, damp cloth when needed. Avoid commercial leaf-shine products, which are unnecessary for keeping the plant healthy.

Propagating Philodendron 69686 from stem cuttings

Stem cuttings are a practical way to propagate this climbing Philodendron. The important part is choosing a healthy section of stem that contains at least one viable node.

A node is the point on the stem where a leaf attaches. It is also where new roots or shoots can develop.

A leaf attached to a petiole without a piece of stem containing a node is not enough to produce a new climbing plant through ordinary stem-cutting propagation.

The following methods are general approaches used for climbing Philodendrons. Croat’s botanical paper does not compare water, sphagnum moss or potting-medium propagation for this cultivar.

What you need

• A healthy stem with at least one viable node.
• Clean, sharp pruning scissors.
• A small container or propagation vessel.
• Clean water, lightly damp sphagnum moss or an airy propagation medium.
• A warm position with bright, indirect light.

Step 1: Select a healthy stem

Choose a firm, healthy section with at least one visible node. A cutting with an attached leaf and an existing aerial root can be convenient because it already has a root structure that may continue developing.

An aerial root is helpful, but it does not guarantee that the cutting will root successfully.

Avoid sections with soft, discoloured or rotting tissue.

Step 2: Make the cut

Use clean scissors to cut just below the selected node. Handle the stem gently so you do not crush the tissue.

If the cutting has several leaves, you can remove an unnecessary lower leaf to make the node easier to position in the rooting medium. Keep enough healthy foliage for the cutting to continue supporting itself.

Step 3: Choose a rooting method

You can root the cutting in water, sphagnum moss or an airy propagation medium.

Water: Place the cutting in a clean container, making sure the node is in contact with the water while the leaf remains above the surface. Keep the water clean and replace it if it becomes cloudy or develops an unpleasant smell.

Sphagnum moss: Use clean moss that is lightly damp rather than dripping wet. Place the node against the moss and use a container that allows some air exchange. Avoid packing the moss tightly around the cutting.

Propagation mix: Place the node in a loose, slightly moist medium that allows air to reach the developing roots. Keep the cutting stable without burying large sections of the stem.

None of these methods is guaranteed to work better in every home. Choose the one that makes it easiest for you to maintain suitable moisture and check the cutting without disturbing it.

For a broader comparison of the two main approaches, see our guide to Philodendron water propagation versus soil propagation.

Step 4: Provide suitable conditions

Keep the cutting in a warm place with bright, indirect light.

The rooting medium should remain appropriately moist, not waterlogged. If you use a covered container, allow some ventilation and check for excessive condensation or mold.

Avoid strong direct sunlight. A cutting without an established root system has a limited ability to replace moisture lost through its leaves.

Step 5: Wait for established roots

Check the cutting periodically rather than pulling it out repeatedly to inspect progress.

Rooting time varies with the condition of the stem, temperature, light, moisture and propagation method. There is no reliable deadline that applies to every cutting.

When the cutting has developed a healthy root system, it can be moved into a suitable potting mix if you started it in water or moss.

After potting, monitor moisture carefully. A cutting that has developed roots in water or moss is moving into a different growing environment, so avoid letting the new medium become either waterlogged or completely dry.

Common propagation mistakes

Identifying and correcting common growing problems

A change in the leaves can tell you that something in the growing environment needs attention. However, one symptom rarely gives you a complete diagnosis.

Look at the whole plant, including the stem, roots, potting mix and recent changes in its environment.

Why are the leaves turning yellow?

An occasional older leaf turning yellow is not necessarily a problem. Leaves naturally age and eventually fall.

Several leaves turning yellow over a short period deserve closer attention.

Check whether the potting mix is staying wet, whether the container drains properly and whether the roots are firm or deteriorating. Also consider recent changes in light, temperature or watering.

If the medium remains saturated and the roots are becoming soft, root damage may be responsible.

Removing yellow leaves will not correct an unhealthy root system. Deal with the underlying problem first.

Why are the leaf edges turning brown?

Brown edges can have several causes, including inconsistent watering, fertilizer salt buildup, dry indoor air and root damage.

Direct sunlight can also produce bleached or brown patches on exposed parts of the foliage.

Look at the pattern of damage. If the affected area faces a bright window, excessive sun may be involved. If several leaves develop dry margins, check watering, fertilizer use and root condition.

You can trim a damaged edge for appearance, but the existing tissue will not turn green again.

Why are new leaves smaller than expected?

Smaller leaves do not automatically mean the plant needs fertilizer or a taller pole.

Possible causes include:

• Insufficient light.
• A plant that is still developing.
• Poor root health.
• Restricted growing space.
• Inadequate nutrition during active growth.
• Recent environmental stress.

Start by checking light and roots. Also consider whether the plant has recently been repotted, moved or allowed to dry out too much.

Climbing support can help manage the plant’s natural growth habit, but it should not be treated as the only factor that determines leaf size.

Why is the stem growing sideways?

A climbing Philodendron without support may extend horizontally or lean toward nearby surfaces. This is not necessarily a sign of poor health.

Install a suitable support and guide the stem toward it gradually. Avoid forcing stiff, older sections into sharp bends because they can crack.

How to recognize possible root rot

Root problems deserve particular attention when the plant remains wilted even though the growing medium is wet.

Other warning signs include:

• Several leaves yellowing within a short period.
• Soft or collapsing stem tissue near the base.
• Roots that feel mushy rather than firm.
• An unpleasant smell from persistently wet potting mix.
• Continued decline despite the medium remaining moist.

Healthy roots are generally firm. Dark roots are not automatically rotten because bark, soil and other growing-medium ingredients can stain them.

If root rot is suspected, remove the plant carefully and inspect the root system. Use clean tools to remove roots that are clearly soft and deteriorating. Repot the surviving plant in fresh, airy medium and a container with working drainage.

Avoid cutting away firm roots simply because they are dark.

Pests to watch for

Like other indoor Philodendrons, ‘Bette Waterbury’ may be affected by common houseplant pests. Regular inspection helps you catch problems before they spread.

Check the undersides of leaves, the folds around new growth, stem joints and the areas where petioles meet the stem.

Spider mites: Look for fine stippling, small pale marks and, in heavier infestations, fine webbing. A magnifying glass can help you distinguish mites from dust or other debris.

Thrips: Their feeding may leave silvery scars, tiny dark droppings and distorted developing leaves. Check new foliage and the folds around emerging leaves.

Mealybugs: These appear as small white, cotton-like clusters, often around leaf attachments, stems and sheltered areas.

Scale insects: These may appear as small, firm bumps attached to stems or leaves. Some produce sticky honeydew.

Do not apply a pesticide simply because a leaf looks damaged. First try to identify the pest.

When you find an infestation, separate the affected plant from nearby houseplants. Remove visible pests where practical and choose a product specifically labelled for the identified pest and the intended use on ornamental plants.

Follow the product label, including its directions for dilution, application frequency, protective equipment and plant safety. Do not assume that a homemade soap or oil mixture is safe for every Philodendron leaf.

Is Philodendron 69686 toxic to pets and children?

Yes. Treat Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ like other Philodendrons when it comes to household safety.

Philodendron plants contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals throughout their tissues. Chewing or swallowing plant material can cause immediate irritation in the mouth and digestive tract. Pets may develop drooling, mouth pain, swelling of the tongue or difficulty swallowing.

The cultivar does not need to appear individually in a toxicity database for you to take sensible precautions. The safety guidance for the genus is relevant.

Wear gloves when pruning if you are sensitive to plant sap. Wash your hands after handling the plant and avoid touching your eyes. Keep it somewhere children and pets cannot reach.

If a pet chews or swallows part of the plant, contact a veterinarian for advice rather than waiting for symptoms to appear.

For more detail, see the Merck Veterinary Manual’s guide to houseplants and ornamentals toxic to animals and the RHS Philodendron growing guide.

Frequently asked questions

Is Philodendron 69686 the same as Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’?

Yes. The cultivated plant commonly known as Philodendron 69686 is the plant for which Thomas Croat published the cultivar name Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ in 2022.

The number comes from its Missouri Botanical Garden voucher reference, while ‘Bette Waterbury’ is the published cultivar name.

Is Philodendron 69686 the same as Philodendron joepii?

No. They are distinct plants, although their leaves can look similar.

Croat’s description distinguishes ‘Bette Waterbury’ by its somewhat less complex leaf divisions and consistently smooth lateral-lobe margins. Philodendron × joepii has more irregular margins on its posterior lobes.

Is Big Ears another name for Philodendron 69686?

Big Ears is an informal trade designation that has been used for this cultivated plant. It is not the published cultivar name. The name published by Croat in 2022 is Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’.

Does Philodendron 69686 need a moss pole?

No. A moss pole is not essential for survival, but a climbing support helps guide the stem and provides a surface for aerial roots.

A moss pole, coir pole, trellis or sturdy board can work. Choose one that suits your growing space and the way you want to manage the plant.

Why are my young Philodendron 69686 leaves not deeply divided?

Leaf appearance can change as a Philodendron develops. Plant maturity, light, root health and general growing conditions can all influence leaf development.

Give the plant suitable conditions and allow it to grow. Do not assume that the absence of a moss pole is automatically responsible for a less divided leaf.

If the foliage consistently looks very different from the documented characteristics, consider whether the plant was correctly identified when purchased.

Can Philodendron 69686 grow indoors without high humidity?

Yes. Average household humidity can be suitable when the plant receives adequate light, has healthy roots and is watered appropriately.

Higher humidity may help maintain comfortable growing conditions in a very dry room, but there is no established percentage that every ‘Bette Waterbury’ must reach.

Can I grow Philodendron 69686 in water?

A stem cutting with a healthy node can be started in water. Keep the node in contact with the water and the leaf above the surface.

Once the cutting has developed a healthy root system, it can be moved into an appropriate growing medium. Keep in mind that water propagation is a method for starting a cutting, not a requirement for growing an established plant.

Does Philodendron 69686 flower indoors?

It can produce an inflorescence, as documented in Croat’s 2022 paper, but flowering is not something to expect regularly from an ordinary indoor plant.

The paper includes photographs of the cultivated plant’s inflorescence. Its main appeal to most houseplant growers remains its distinctive foliage.

Final thoughts

Philodendron 69686 is more than an unusual collector’s plant with a memorable number. Its published cultivar name, ‘Bette Waterbury’, reflects a documented history in cultivation, while its original wild provenance and exact parentage remain unknown.

For indoor growing, focus on bright, indirect light, an airy potting mix and watering based on the moisture in the root zone. Give the climbing stem suitable support, but do not treat a moss pole or a particular humidity reading as a guarantee of larger leaves.

Understanding its climbing habit and the features described in Croat’s botanical paper makes it easier to identify the plant and provide care based on what is actually known about it.