Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’ Care: Growing Its Orange New Leaves Indoors

Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’ is a self-heading hybrid known for its bright orange new leaves. As the foliage develops, the colour gradually changes through apricot and yellow-green before settling into pale or medium green. Its pinkish-red leaf stalks add another splash of colour, making the plant attractive even after its newest leaves have matured.

Unlike climbing Philodendrons such as Melanochrysum and Silver Sword, Prince of Orange develops an upright, compact structure from a central crown. It does not need a moss pole to grow properly. Instead, it needs enough room for its leaves to spread, suitable indirect light and a healthy root environment.

One detail worth understanding from the beginning is that orange foliage is a temporary stage of leaf development, not permanent variegation. An orange leaf gradually turning green is normal and does not mean the plant is losing its colour or becoming unhealthy.

The other important part of care is avoiding excessive moisture around the roots. The original plant patent specifically identifies overwatering as detrimental to this cultivar. A well-draining growing medium, an appropriately sized pot and sensible watering are therefore more useful than following a fixed schedule.

This guide covers the plant’s origins, changing leaf colours, lighting, watering, soil, propagation, common problems and the conditions that help it grow well indoors.

Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’ care at a glance

Understanding Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’

Prince of Orange is a cultivated hybrid rather than a naturally occurring Philodendron species. Its name comes from its most recognisable feature: the bright orange colour of its immature leaves.

It belongs to the self-heading group of Philodendrons. Instead of producing long climbing or trailing stems, it develops a compact crown from which the leaves emerge.

The plant has an interesting history that is documented in an original US plant patent, making it possible to explain its development with more detail than a typical nursery description.

How was Prince of Orange developed?

The original plant patent, USPP6797P, was filed on January 21, 1988, and published on May 16, 1989. It identifies Howard N. Miller as the inventor and describes the breeding process used to develop Prince of Orange.

The patent records a series of crosses rather than a simple pairing of two named species.

A yellow-green seedling from breeding line 6634-14 was crossed with an unnamed seedling whose ancestry included Philodendron domesticum, P. erubescens, P. wendlandii and P. imbe.

A selection from that cross was then crossed with Philodendron cannifolium. The purpose included developing shorter, thicker petioles and a true rosette growth habit. A single seedling was selected and named Prince of Orange for commercial identification.

This breeding history helps explain its compact form and unusual foliage. It also means that describing Prince of Orange simply as a form of P. erubescens would be inaccurate.

You can read the original breeding description in US plant patent USPP6797P.

Why do its leaves change from orange to green?

The changing foliage is the main reason people grow Prince of Orange.

The original patent describes its new leaves as glossy and bright orange. As they mature, they pass through a sequence of colours:

1. Bright orange: Fresh leaves emerge with a vivid orange appearance.
2. Apricot: The colour gradually softens into a warmer apricot shade.
3. Yellow-green: The leaf moves towards a lighter green.
4. Pale or medium green: The mature leaf settles into a greener appearance.

The petioles, which are the stalks connecting the leaves to the main crown, are described in the patent as pinkish-red.

The RHS also describes the foliage as changing from bright yellow through copper-orange before eventually becoming dark green. These descriptions differ slightly in the initial colour, but both sources agree on the central feature: young foliage has warm colours that change as the leaves mature.

This explains why one plant can display orange, apricot, yellow-green and mature green leaves at the same time. Each leaf is developing at a different stage.

Prince of Orange is therefore different from a traditionally variegated Philodendron such as a cultivar with permanent white or cream markings. Its orange colour is a developmental feature, not a pattern that should remain on every leaf.

Should you worry when an orange leaf turns green?

No. That is a normal part of its development.

An older leaf does not need to remain orange to be healthy. Once it matures, it contributes to the plant’s photosynthesis through its developed green tissue.

I would leave healthy mature leaves attached unless they are damaged, diseased or naturally declining. Removing them simply because they are no longer orange reduces the foliage available to support the plant.

A more useful thing to watch is the next leaf.

Is fresh growth emerging from the crown? Does the leaf open normally? Is the new foliage developing without damage?

These observations tell you more about the plant’s condition than the colour of an older leaf.

How large can Prince of Orange grow?

Prince of Orange has a relatively compact, self-heading form, but it is not necessarily a tiny plant.

The original patent records an average height of approximately 18–20 inches and a width of around 36 inches for a one-year-old plant grown from a tissue-culture liner under its described conditions. It also records mature leaves measuring approximately 12–14 inches long and 7–8 inches wide.

The RHS gives a potential height and spread of 0.5–1 metre, with a listed time to maturity of approximately 2–5 years.

These are reference measurements from different horticultural sources and growing conditions, not guaranteed dimensions for every home-grown plant. They show why a sturdy container and enough space around the foliage are worth considering before choosing its permanent position.

Understand its upright growth before choosing a spot

Prince of Orange belongs to the self-heading group of Philodendrons.

Instead of producing long vines that grow outward or climb a support, it develops a compact, upright structure. Its leaves emerge around a central crown, with the petioles arranged in a rosette.

The original patent describes the plant as having a very short, stocky stem and a true rosette growth habit. This is the feature that separates it from climbing varieties such as Philodendron melanochrysum and P. hastatum.

Its shape also influences how you should choose a pot and position it indoors.

Does Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’ need a moss pole?

No. A moss pole is unnecessary for its normal growth.

Unlike climbing varieties, Prince of Orange does not depend on a vertical support to develop its mature foliage. Its structure comes from the central crown and the way its leaves emerge around that growing point.

Adding a moss pole will not make it grow like a climbing Philodendron.

Instead, give it enough horizontal space for the foliage to spread naturally. Avoid squeezing it between other plants where the leaves constantly touch walls, furniture or neighbouring pots.

If the plant becomes unstable, a heavier container is generally more useful than installing a climbing pole.

Choose a stable container

As the foliage develops, Prince of Orange can become broad and slightly top-heavy. A lightweight container may tip over, particularly when the leaves spread outward.

Choose a sturdy pot with unobstructed drainage holes. Its size should comfortably accommodate the roots without leaving a large volume of unused, wet growing medium around them.

There is no advantage to moving a small plant into a dramatically larger container. Excess soil can stay wet for longer than the roots need, increasing the risk of root problems.

A heavier ceramic or terracotta container can help with stability, although the material you choose will also affect how quickly the growing medium dries.

Give it suitable light without scorching the leaves

Light affects how well Prince of Orange grows indoors. A position with good natural light supports healthy foliage and continued development.

A bright room with filtered sunlight is a sensible starting point.

An east-facing window can work well because it often provides gentler morning sunlight. Near a south- or west-facing window, a sheer curtain or some distance from the glass can help protect the leaves from intense afternoon sunlight.

A north-facing window may also work in a naturally bright room, although growth may be slower when available light is consistently weak.

Does more sunlight produce brighter orange leaves?

Not necessarily.

The orange colour is part of the leaf’s development. Providing stronger light will not keep an older leaf orange permanently.

Published guidance about the relationship between light and this cultivar’s colour is not completely consistent.

The University of Florida’s consumer guide says Prince of Orange can maintain its orange colour across different light levels. Its commercial production guidance, however, recommends higher interior light for continued growth and colour development.

The original plant patent provides another useful detail. It records that the plant maintained its form and colour under the conditions tested, but very high light intensity could cause the orange colour to become dull yellow-bronze. Very high temperatures could produce a similar change.

These sources do not establish one exact light level that guarantees the brightest orange foliage in every home.

The practical approach is to provide medium to bright indirect light, avoid persistently dim positions and protect the leaves from harsh direct sunlight.

UF/IFAS recommends medium to bright indirect light for hybrid Philodendrons and explains that coloured cultivars generally benefit from adequate indoor lighting. You can read its guide to hybrid Philodendrons and its more detailed commercial production guidance.

Recognising too much or too little light

Changes in the leaves can help you decide whether the plant needs a different position.

If the plant is growing slowly in a dim room, move it gradually towards a brighter position.

Avoid moving it straight from a dark corner into strong afternoon sunlight. A sudden change can damage foliage that has not adjusted to the brighter conditions.

Can artificial grow lights help?

Yes. A suitable LED grow light can support growth when natural daylight is limited.

Choose a light intended for growing plants and follow the manufacturer’s positioning and operating instructions.

Do not place a powerful light so close that it overheats the leaves. Observe how the plant responds rather than assuming that stronger lighting will automatically produce brighter orange foliage.

Water according to the moisture inside the pot

Watering is one of the most important parts of keeping Prince of Orange healthy.

Its roots need moisture, but they also need access to air. When the potting mix remains saturated for extended periods, roots can become damaged.

The original patent specifically notes that overwatering is detrimental to this cultivar.

The opposite problem can also occur. Allowing the root zone to become excessively dry for too long can leave the foliage limp and interfere with new growth.

A useful starting point is to check the upper part of the potting mix before watering.

How to tell when it needs water

For an established plant in a suitably sized container:

1. Check the upper inch of growing medium with your finger.
2. If it still feels noticeably moist, give it more time.
3. When the upper layer has started to dry, check deeper into the pot.
4. If the lower root zone remains saturated, do not water yet.
5. When the mix has reached an appropriate level of dryness, water thoroughly.
6. Allow excess moisture to drain through the bottom of the pot.
7. Empty any water collected in the saucer or decorative outer container.

The surface can become dry while the lower portion of a large container remains wet. This is why checking only the top layer can sometimes give you the wrong impression.

The goal is to keep the plant supplied with moisture without leaving its roots sitting in saturated soil.

Why watering frequency changes

You should not expect the same watering interval throughout the year.

Several things affect how quickly the pot dries:

Pot size: Large containers generally hold more moisture than small ones. An oversized pot may stay wet for longer than the plant needs.

Pot material: Terracotta allows moisture to escape through its sides more readily than plastic or glazed ceramic.

Growing medium: A loose mix with good airflow dries differently from dense, compact soil.

Light: Plants receiving more usable light may use water faster during active growth.

Temperature: Warmer conditions usually encourage faster moisture loss.

Plant development: A larger, actively growing plant may use more water than a recently repotted or slow-growing one.

During cooler months, growth may slow and the potting mix can stay wet for longer. Check the soil before watering rather than continuing with the same summer routine.

I cover these seasonal changes in more detail in my guide to how often to water Philodendrons during winter. The same principle applies here: use the condition of the potting mix, not a fixed number of days, to decide when to water.

Choose a potting mix that protects the roots

A suitable growing medium should hold enough moisture for the plant while allowing excess water to drain.

Dense garden soil is not a good choice for an indoor container. It can become compacted and restrict airflow around the roots.

A loose houseplant or aroid-style mix is more suitable.

Useful ingredients include:

You do not need a complicated recipe. The important thing is to create a mix that stays lightly moist after watering without becoming heavy and waterlogged.

A suitable starting point is quality indoor potting mix combined with orchid bark and perlite or pumice. Adjust the proportions according to how quickly the mixture dries in your home.

If it remains wet for an unusually long time, check whether it contains too much fine material or whether the container is larger than the root system needs.

If it dries very quickly, adjust the moisture-retaining component rather than watering repeatedly without checking the deeper mix.

Why drainage holes matter

A container without drainage holes makes watering much harder to manage.

Even a suitable potting mix can become saturated when excess water has nowhere to escape.

Always use a container that allows water to drain freely. A decorative outer pot is fine, provided you can remove the growing pot to empty collected water after watering.

Keep it comfortable in an ordinary indoor environment

Prince of Orange does not need a complicated greenhouse setup to grow indoors.

The original plant patent describes it as performing well under normal indoor conditions and records good growth under the conditions tested. It also notes that the plant tolerates air-conditioning, although very high temperatures can dull its orange colour.

Keep it away from cold drafts, sudden temperature changes and direct airflow from heating or air-conditioning equipment.

Does it need high humidity?

Moderate indoor conditions can be suitable.

There is no established cultivar-specific humidity percentage that every Prince of Orange grower needs to maintain. Avoid assuming that a particular figure, such as 60% or 70%, is essential for success.

If the air in your home is consistently dry, a room humidifier can help maintain a more comfortable environment.

Good airflow also matters. Avoid placing the plant in a cramped corner where moisture becomes trapped around the leaves.

Is misting necessary?

No. Misting is not a reliable way to maintain lasting humidity around the plant.

It can temporarily wet the foliage, but it does not replace suitable growing conditions or correct problems caused by dry roots and poor watering.

Focus on the overall room environment instead.

Feeding without damaging the roots

Prince of Orange benefits from nutrients while it is actively producing new foliage.

A balanced fertilizer intended for indoor foliage plants is suitable. Follow the product’s dilution and application instructions rather than increasing the concentration to encourage faster growth.

UF/IFAS notes that excessive fertilizer can contribute to brown leaf tips in hybrid Philodendrons. The original patent also describes Prince of Orange as a plant that can grow well with relatively modest fertilizer requirements under suitable conditions.

During active growth, feed according to the product label. When growth slows, reduce feeding.

Why excessive fertilizer causes trouble

Giving the plant more fertilizer will not keep its orange leaves orange.

Excess nutrients can build up in the growing medium, especially when fertilizer is applied too frequently or at a stronger concentration than recommended.

Possible signs include:

• Brown leaf tips or edges.
• A whitish crust on the potting mix.
• Damaged roots.
• Slower or unhealthy growth.

Brown tips have several possible causes, including fertilizer buildup, inconsistent watering and environmental stress. A white crust may indicate accumulated salts, but it should not be treated as proof on its own.

When you notice these signs, check the root environment and recent feeding routine before adding more fertilizer.

Do not try to correct every brown leaf tip with another nutrient application.

Repot when the roots need more space

Prince of Orange does not need to be repotted simply because a certain amount of time has passed.

Look at the condition of the root system and growing medium instead.

Repotting may be appropriate when:

• Roots are densely packed inside the container.
• Roots are emerging through several drainage holes, particularly alongside other signs of crowding.
• The potting mix has broken down and no longer drains properly.
• The plant dries out unusually quickly despite appropriate watering.
• The plant has become unstable because the root system is overcrowded.

A few roots appearing through one drainage hole do not automatically mean the plant needs immediate repotting.

Choose a container that comfortably accommodates the existing roots, with a little additional room for growth.

Avoid jumping into a much larger pot. Excess soil around a small root system can retain moisture longer than the plant can use.

When repotting, keep the central crown at approximately its original level. Do not bury the growing point under a thick layer of potting mix.

After repotting, place the plant in bright indirect light and allow it to settle before resuming your usual feeding routine.

Propagating Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’

Propagation requires more attention than it does with ordinary trailing Philodendrons.

A heartleaf Philodendron produces long stems with clearly spaced nodes. Those stems can be cut into sections and rooted in water or another suitable medium.

Prince of Orange has a much more compact structure. Its stem is very short and closely associated with the central crown, so obtaining suitable cutting material can be difficult.

The original plant patent explains that its compact, nearly stemless growth made conventional vegetative propagation commercially impractical. It describes tissue culture as the method used to produce large numbers of plants while retaining the cultivar’s distinctive characteristics.

For home growers, the most useful opportunities are a suitable basal offset or a stem section containing viable nodes, when the plant provides one.

Method 1: Separating a basal offset

If your plant produces a separate shoot near its base, that may provide an opportunity for propagation.

Not every plant produces an offset that is easy to separate, so do not force the process.

Look for a shoot with its own developing growing point and, preferably, some roots of its own.

1. Remove the plant from its container carefully enough to inspect the base.
2. Identify the separate shoot and examine where it connects to the parent plant.
3. Check whether the offset has developed roots.
4. Use a clean, sharp knife to separate it without unnecessarily damaging the parent plant.
5. Place the offset in a small container with suitable, lightly moist potting mix.
6. Keep it in a warm position with bright indirect light while it establishes.

Avoid constantly pulling at the offset to check whether it has rooted. Give the new plant time to settle.

Method 2: Using a suitable stem section

The RHS lists stem-tip and leaf-bud cuttings as possible propagation methods for Prince of Orange.

Iowa State University Extension also explains that non-trailing Philodendrons can be propagated from offsets or stem sections containing at least two nodes.

However, Prince of Orange’s very short, compact stem makes this approach less straightforward than propagating a long-vined Philodendron.

Before taking a cutting, make sure the section contains suitable stem tissue and viable nodes. A detached leaf with its petiole is not enough to produce a complete plant.

For a valuable or healthy specimen, I would not cut into the main crown simply to experiment with propagation.

What about water and soil propagation?

Where a suitable stem section is available, it may be rooted in water or a well-drained rooting medium such as perlite. Iowa State University Extension recommends both approaches for suitable Philodendron cuttings.

Water propagation lets you observe root development, while a rooting medium provides a different environment around the cutting. Neither method guarantees success, and the cutting’s condition matters more than following a fixed timetable.

For a general comparison of the two methods, see my guide to Philodendron water propagation versus soil propagation. The methods discussed there apply to suitable cuttings, but remember that Prince of Orange’s compact crown makes it less straightforward to propagate than a typical trailing variety.

Commercial tissue culture

Tissue culture is an important part of how this cultivar became available in larger numbers.

The original plant patent describes tissue culture as a way to mass-produce Prince of Orange while retaining its distinctive characteristics through successive asexual generations.

This is a specialised propagation technique carried out in controlled laboratory conditions rather than a normal home-growing method.

Reading the problems before treating the plant

A change in leaf appearance does not automatically mean the plant has a disease.

Prince of Orange can develop problems from unsuitable light, inconsistent watering, damaged roots, excessive fertilizer or common houseplant pests.

The best approach is to look at the pattern of damage and check the growing conditions.

These are possible explanations rather than definite diagnoses. Several different problems can produce similar symptoms.

Yellow leaves and possible root damage

A single older leaf turning yellow is not necessarily a serious problem.

However, several leaves yellowing together deserve more attention, particularly when the potting mix stays wet.

Carefully inspect the roots if the plant is also drooping despite having moist soil.

Healthy roots are generally firm. Rotten roots may become dark, soft, mushy or unpleasant-smelling. Colour alone is not enough to confirm root rot.

If you find significant root damage, remove the affected material with a clean cutting tool and repot the remaining healthy root system in fresh, well-draining mix.

Correct the underlying watering or drainage problem as well. Otherwise, the damage may continue.

Spider mites and other pests

Spider mites can be difficult to detect during an early infestation.

Look for tiny pale dots across the foliage, fine webbing and damage that gradually becomes more noticeable.

Mealybugs often appear as white, cotton-like clusters around leaf joints and other protected areas.

Scale insects can look like small, firmly attached bumps on stems and petioles. Aphids may also gather around tender new growth.

If you suspect an infestation, separate the plant from nearby houseplants where possible. Inspect the undersides of the leaves and the central growing area.

Identify the pest before selecting a treatment. Use an insecticide, miticide or other plant treatment only when its label covers the intended pest and plant. Follow the application instructions carefully, including any precautions for sensitive foliage.

My guide to identifying spider mites on Philodendron leaves explains common signs such as pale stippling and webbing. The inspection principles are useful across Philodendrons, although the leaf texture and appearance differ between species.

Is Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’ safe around pets?

No. Prince of Orange should be treated as unsafe for pets and children to chew or ingest.

Philodendrons contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Chewing or swallowing plant material can irritate the mouth and digestive tract.

Possible signs in pets include:

• Excessive drooling.
• Pawing at the mouth.
• Oral irritation.
• Vomiting.
• Difficulty swallowing.

The ASPCA lists Philodendron species as toxic to dogs and cats because of their calcium oxalate crystals. You can read its Variegated Philodendron toxicity information.

Keep the plant away from curious pets and young children.

Wear gloves when pruning or separating plant material if your skin is sensitive to plant sap. Wash your hands after handling it and avoid touching your eyes.

Contact a veterinarian promptly if a pet chews or swallows part of the plant and develops symptoms. If a person swallows plant material or develops significant irritation, seek medical advice.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’ losing its orange colour?

The most common explanation is normal leaf development. New leaves naturally emerge orange and gradually change through apricot and yellow-green before becoming green.

This is not the same as losing variegation because the orange colour is temporary.

However, if new growth is consistently weak, small or unhealthy, examine the light, watering and root conditions.

Can Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’ grow in low light?

It may survive in a lower-light room, but prolonged dim conditions are not ideal for steady growth.

A medium to bright position with indirect sunlight is a better choice. Avoid harsh direct sunlight and excessive heat, which can damage foliage or dull the orange colour.

Does Prince of Orange need a moss pole?

No. It is a self-heading Philodendron with an upright rosette growth habit. A moss pole is not required for normal development.

Give it enough horizontal space for its leaves to spread.

How often should I water it?

Water when the upper portion of the potting mix has dried sufficiently, then check deeper moisture before watering thoroughly.

The exact interval depends on pot size, growing medium, temperature, light, root development and season. Avoid relying on a fixed weekly schedule.

Can I propagate Prince of Orange from a leaf cutting?

A detached leaf and petiole alone will not produce a complete new plant through ordinary leaf cutting propagation.

You need suitable stem tissue containing viable nodes or a separate offset with a growing point. Its compact crown makes this more difficult than propagating a trailing Philodendron.

Will it produce orange leaves throughout the year?

It can continue producing orange new leaves while it is actively growing and conditions are suitable.

However, growth naturally changes with the environment and season. The orange colour of each individual leaf is temporary, even when the plant is healthy.

How big does Prince of Orange get?

The RHS lists a potential height and spread of 0.5–1 metre. The original patent recorded a one-year-old tissue-culture plant averaging 18–20 inches tall and approximately 36 inches wide under its described conditions.

Actual size depends on the plant’s age and growing environment.

Is Prince of Orange toxic to cats and dogs?

Yes. Philodendron plants contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that can irritate the mouth and digestive tract when chewed or swallowed. Keep the plant out of reach of pets.

Growing Philodendron ‘Prince of Orange’ successfully

The most useful thing to remember about Prince of Orange is that its orange foliage is a stage of development, not a colour that should remain on every leaf.

Give the plant suitable indirect light, a well-draining root environment and enough space for its upright crown to develop. Check the growing medium before watering, avoid excessive fertilizer and do not repot unnecessarily.

Its compact growth makes it different from climbing and trailing Philodendrons, so there is no need to add a moss pole or try to train it upwards.

Once you understand how its leaves mature and how its self-heading structure develops, caring for Prince of Orange becomes much easier. The goal is a healthy, balanced plant with fresh orange growth and strong mature foliage.