Philodendron Nangaritense Care: Light, Water, Soil and Growth Habit

Philodendron nangaritense Croat is a distinctive tropical aroid with green, satin-like leaves and unusual maroon petioles ornamented with pale raised structures. These markings are part of the plant’s natural appearance, but they can confuse growers who mistake them for mealybugs.

Its growth habit is another detail worth understanding before choosing a pot or support. Horticultural observations describe P. nangaritense as a creeping terrestrial to very short hemiepiphytic species. In cultivation, it may spread across a surface, and larger plants have been observed moving a short distance up flat cork supports.

This does not mean every specimen needs a tall moss pole. A more sensible approach is to give the roots enough room, observe the direction of the stem, and choose a container or support that suits the way the individual plant is growing.

There is also an important distinction between the plant’s formal botanical record and the information available about its care. Kew’s Plants of the World Online accepts Philodendron nangaritense Croat and lists its native range as Ecuador. The species was formally published in 2021 in Xavier Delannay and Thomas B. Croat’s Florula of Araceae from the Cordillera del Cóndor (Ecuador and Peru), in Aroideana 44(2), with the species entry cited at page 430.

Jay Vannini’s horticultural account provides useful observations about its appearance and behaviour in cultivation. However, it uses the provisional notation “Croat ined./ms. in prep.”, so it should be read as a horticultural account from before the formal publication, not as a replacement for the botanical description.

Published, species-specific indoor care trials are limited. This guide distinguishes documented botanical information and attributed horticultural observations from practical care recommendations based on general Philodendron-growing principles. Where a precise requirement has not been established for this species, it is not presented as a proven rule.

Philodendron nangaritense care at a glance

Botanical identity and what makes Philodendron nangaritense different

Philodendron nangaritense Croat belongs to the Araceae family. Kew’s Plants of the World Online entry for Philodendron nangaritense lists the species as accepted, records Ecuador as its native range and places it primarily in the wet tropical biome.

The formal name was published in the 2021 paper by Xavier Delannay and Thomas B. Croat, “Florula of Araceae from the Cordillera del Cóndor (Ecuador and Peru),” in Aroideana 44(2). The species is cited at page 430. You can consult the official Aroideana Volume 44, Number 2 issue page and its publicly accessible article abstract. The International Plant Names Index entry independently records the name and its publication at Aroideana 44(2): 430 (2021).

The title of the larger florula refers to the Cordillera del Cóndor region of Ecuador and Peru. That regional title should not be taken by itself as proof that P. nangaritense has a native distribution across both countries: Kew’s current record lists its native range as Ecuador. IPNI also records the type collection, Croat 97112, from Zamora-Chinchipe in Ecuador, collected in the Cordillera del Cóndor region in April 2006.

What the foliage and petioles look like

The plant’s green upper leaf surfaces and maroon petioles are among its most recognisable horticultural features. In his account, Jay Vannini describes the upper leaf surfaces as glossy and satin-like, and the maroon petioles as densely covered in white, eccentrically shaped, blunt-tipped tubercles.

There is a small terminology detail worth preserving. Vannini’s written description calls the raised structures tubercles, while the caption accompanying his photograph refers to petiole and midvein scales. These are descriptions from the horticultural account. For the formal taxonomic diagnosis and botanical terminology, consult Croat’s published treatment rather than assuming that a grower’s description is a complete diagnostic key.

Vannini also describes the plant as creeping and terrestrial to very short hemiepiphytic. In practical terms, it should not automatically be treated like a long-stemmed climbing Philodendron. Its stem may travel across the growing surface, and some cultivated plants may use a nearby support for a limited distance.

The distinction matters when arranging the plant indoors. A container that gives the stem room to extend may be more useful than a narrow pot chosen only to accommodate a tall climbing pole. However, individual plants can develop differently, so observe the actual stem and root growth before changing the setup.

Understanding its unusual petioles

The petiole is the stalk that connects a leaf blade to the plant’s stem. In Vannini’s horticultural description of P. nangaritense, the petioles are maroon and covered with pale, blunt-tipped raised structures called tubercles. His photograph caption also refers to ornamentation on the petioles and midvein.

These structures contribute to the plant’s distinctive texture. They can look like tiny pale bumps, scales or rough growth when viewed closely. Their presence alone is not evidence of a pest infestation.

That distinction matters because white or pale material on a houseplant can sometimes be a sign of mealybugs. The pest produces a waxy covering that may look like cottony deposits on stems, leaf joints and other sheltered parts of a plant.

Natural petiole structures or mealybugs?

Do not assume that every pale mark on a Philodendron nangaritense petiole is a pest. Look at the arrangement of the structures and check for other signs of insect activity.

Mealybugs often hide where leaves meet stems, around growing points, on leaf undersides and in other sheltered areas. Their waxy covering can make them look like bits of cotton. They feed on plant sap, and their honeydew can leave nearby surfaces sticky. Black sooty mould may develop on the honeydew deposits.

The University of Maryland Extension’s guide to mealybugs on indoor plants explains these signs and recommends regular inspection. You can also read Jefrev’s guide to mealybugs on Philodendron Birkin for a houseplant-focused explanation of where to look and how to respond.

When checking P. nangaritense, use a bright light and inspect both the petioles and less visible areas around the stem and leaf joints. A small magnifying glass can help. Look for an insect body beneath any cottony material rather than judging by colour alone.

A natural tubercle will not crawl away or leave a sticky deposit. Avoid scraping, pulling or repeatedly wiping the natural structures in an attempt to remove them. Doing so can damage the petiole without solving a pest problem.

If you find actual mealybugs, isolate the plant and inspect nearby houseplants. Identify the infestation before choosing a treatment. Use only a product labelled for indoor plants and the pest concerned, and follow its instructions. Do not apply alcohol, insecticidal soap or other treatments over the natural tubercles simply because they look unusual.

Understanding its leaves

Vannini describes the upper leaf surfaces as glossy and satin-like, with a green colour that contrasts with the maroon petioles. He also reports that leaf blades on cultivated plants can exceed 60 cm in length.

That measurement is a reported observation, not a size every indoor grower should expect. Plant maturity, growing conditions and the individual specimen all influence leaf development. A plant in a small container or a less favourable indoor position may remain much smaller.

Identification should not depend on one leaf alone. Look at the combination of foliage, petiole ornamentation and reported growth habit. Juvenile and mature foliage can differ, and a single imperfect leaf is rarely enough to confirm a species identity.

A newly emerging leaf may also look different from a fully developed one. Like other Philodendrons, a new leaf may emerge folded and feel softer than older foliage. Its colour and texture can change as it opens and hardens.

Do not mistake every change in a new leaf for a care problem. Consider whether the leaf is still developing and whether the rest of the plant remains healthy.

Light: provide bright, filtered conditions

Place Philodendron nangaritense where it receives good natural light without prolonged exposure to harsh direct sunlight. A bright room near a suitable window is a sensible starting point.

Light should be strong enough to support steady growth, but intense sunlight through glass can overheat and scorch foliage. This is worth watching when a plant moves from a shaded nursery or protected growing area into a brighter home.

An east-facing window may provide useful morning light. A bright south- or west-facing window can also work when the plant is set back from the glass or protected with a light curtain. The actual intensity depends on the window, season, surrounding buildings and distance from the glass, so do not rely on direction alone.

Watch how the plant responds after you move it:

• If growth becomes weak or noticeably slower, check whether the plant is receiving enough light.
• If leaves develop bleached or dry patches on the side facing the window, reduce direct exposure.
• If the plant has been growing in shade, increase its light gradually rather than moving it straight into strong sun.

There is no well-established light measurement that can be treated as the ideal target for every indoor P. nangaritense. Judge its position by the light available in your home and the plant’s response.

Watering: keep the root zone moist but not waterlogged

Watering is easier to manage when you pay attention to the potting mix instead of following a fixed weekly schedule.

The right interval changes with the amount of light, room temperature, pot size, root development, growing season and type of potting mix. A plant in a warm, bright room with an airy mix may use water faster than one in a cooler room with a larger container.

Before watering, check more than the surface. The top of a chunky mix can look dry while the material around the lower roots is still wet.

Use your finger or a clean wooden stick to check the mix several centimetres below the surface. You can also lift the pot occasionally to learn how its weight changes as it dries.

Water when the upper portion of the mix has begun to dry and the root zone is no longer saturated. Water thoroughly until excess runs through the drainage holes, then empty the saucer or outer pot. Do not leave the container standing in drained water.

Avoid two common mistakes:

Watering too often: Repeatedly adding water while the mix is still wet reduces the air available around the roots. In a dense or poorly drained mix, this can lead to root damage.

Allowing the whole root ball to become extremely dry: A long period of severe dryness can stress the roots and affect new foliage. Do not wait for the entire pot to become completely dry before watering.

The goal is a balance: enough moisture for the roots to function, with enough air in the mix to prevent prolonged saturation.

For help distinguishing the signs, see Philodendron Overwatering vs. Underwatering. During cooler or darker periods, water use may slow, so the same routine may no longer be suitable. Jefrev’s guide to watering Philodendrons in winter explains why checking the mix is more reliable than following a calendar.

Choosing a suitable potting mix

A heavy, compact mix is a poor choice for a plant that needs both moisture and oxygen around its roots. A loose medium that drains freely is a better starting point.

A practical indoor mix can contain:

• A quality peat- or coco-based potting mix to hold some moisture.
• Orchid bark to create larger air spaces and improve structure.
• Perlite or pumice to make the mix less compact and support drainage.

You do not need to follow one exact recipe. The best balance depends on the materials available, the size of the pot, the growing conditions and how often you tend to water.

A mix that dries too quickly may need more moisture-retaining material. A mix that stays wet for too long may need more bark, pumice or perlite, or a smaller pot.

Avoid using garden soil by itself. It can become dense in a container and may not provide the drainage and air space needed for healthy indoor roots.

Before using a new mix, check that it is clean and free of pests, mouldy material and unpleasant smells. If the mix has broken down into a fine, compact layer, replacing it is usually better than trying to correct the problem by changing your watering routine alone.

To estimate how much substrate you need for a chosen container, use the Philodendron Potting Mix and Volume Calculator. Treat the calculator’s result as a volume estimate; the actual amount may vary with the shape of the pot and how the materials settle.

Choosing a pot based on its growth direction

Do not choose a pot for P. nangaritense simply because other Philodendrons are commonly grown with moss poles. Its reported growth habit is different, and a large specimen may spread across the growing surface before moving upward.

Vannini’s horticultural account describes mature plants as taking up considerable bench space. It also notes that larger cultivated plants can move up a flat cork slab for a short distance. This is useful evidence that a plant may use a support, but it does not establish that a tall pole is necessary or that every specimen will climb.

Choose the container after looking at the plant’s roots and stem.

If the stem is spreading horizontally

A wider container can give the plant room to extend across the surface. This may be more practical than a narrow pot that leaves little space for the stem to spread.

A broad planter may work when the root system suits it, but do not select a very shallow bowl just because the plant creeps. The container still needs enough depth for the roots and enough mix to hold moisture without staying saturated.

If the stem is beginning to grow upward

Some specimens may begin to use a nearby surface. If yours starts moving upward, you can place a flat cork slab or another suitable support near the growing direction.

Choose a stable container that can hold both the root system and the support without tipping over. A broader or heavier base may help when the plant becomes larger. Keep the stem secure without tying it so tightly that new growth is restricted.

A tall moss pole is optional, not a default requirement. Use one only if it suits the direction and size of your specimen.

If the plant is still small

Do not put a small plant into an oversized container to prepare for future growth. A large amount of unused potting mix can remain wet for too long, especially when the roots are not yet able to use the available moisture.

Choose a pot that accommodates the existing root system with some room for growth. Make sure it has drainage holes and that the plant sits securely.

The practical rule: Let the roots determine the space the pot needs, and let the stem’s actual direction determine the container’s shape and whether a support is useful.

Humidity and airflow

Kew records P. nangaritense as growing primarily in the wet tropical biome. Vannini’s horticultural account describes it as originating from low-elevation cloud forest in the Cordillera del Cóndor, at approximately 900–1,100 metres.

These are useful habitat and horticultural observations, but they do not establish one exact indoor humidity percentage for this species. A regional biome classification or a reported collection elevation is not the same thing as a tested indoor humidity requirement.

If your home has very dry air, a humidifier can help create a more stable environment. Use a room humidity meter to understand the conditions rather than guessing. Avoid allowing moisture to collect on leaves for long periods, particularly where air movement is poor.

Gentle air circulation is useful, but do not place the plant directly in the path of a strong fan, heater or air-conditioning vent. Constant dry airflow can make it harder to maintain stable growing conditions.

If new leaves develop brown edges or fail to open properly, do not assume humidity is the only cause. Check watering, root health, pests and possible damage to the developing leaf as well.

Temperature: avoid sudden changes

Keep the plant in a warm room with reasonably stable conditions. Protect it from cold window glass, chilly drafts and sudden temperature changes.

Avoid placing it beside a heater or in the direct path of hot or cold air. These locations can create a much harsher environment than the rest of the room.

Vannini reports that one cultivated specimen in his collection tolerated brief periods between approximately 9°C and 35°C without visible damage. This is an observation about an individual plant, not a controlled tolerance study or a recommended indoor temperature range. It should not be interpreted as evidence that prolonged exposure to either extreme is safe.

For an indoor plant, stable and comfortable conditions are a more sensible goal than deliberately testing the limits of its reported tolerance.

Does Philodendron nangaritense need a moss pole?

No. A moss pole is not a basic requirement for this species.

Its reported growth habit is creeping and terrestrial to very short hemiepiphytic. This makes it different from Philodendrons that naturally produce long climbing stems.

A wider container can give the plant room to spread. As it develops, you may find that the stem moves across the surface or begins to use a nearby support.

A flat piece of cork or another suitable broad support may be useful if you want to guide its growth vertically. Vannini reports that larger cultivated plants can move up flat cork slabs for a short distance.

Do not install a tall moss pole simply because the plant belongs to the Philodendron genus. Choose a support based on the way your particular plant is growing.

Feeding and fertilizer

A balanced fertilizer can support new growth during periods when the plant is actively growing. It does not replace good light, a healthy root system or a suitable potting mix.

Use a fertilizer intended for houseplants and follow the manufacturer’s directions. Do not apply extra fertilizer in an attempt to force larger leaves or faster growth. Excess fertilizer can cause salt buildup and damage roots.

If the potting mix already contains slow-release fertilizer, take that into account before adding more. A plant that is stressed, badly dehydrated or suffering from root problems should be allowed to recover before you resume feeding.

Growth may slow when light levels or temperatures change. That does not automatically mean the plant needs more fertilizer.

Repotting: look at the roots and the condition of the mix

There is no need to repot Philodendron nangaritense every year simply because a new growing season has started.

Check the roots and potting mix instead. Repot when the roots have filled most of the available space, the mix has broken down, water no longer moves through the container properly, or the plant is becoming unstable.

When choosing a new pot, consider both the root system and the direction of growth. A wider container may be useful for a plant that is spreading, while a stable pot with room for a support may suit one that is moving upward. Avoid choosing an excessively large pot, because unused wet mix can take too long to dry.

During repotting:

1. Remove the plant carefully and inspect the roots.
2. Trim roots that are clearly dead or rotting with clean tools.
3. Remove loose, broken-down material that no longer drains properly.
4. Place the plant in fresh, airy mix without burying the stem more deeply than necessary.
5. Water to settle the mix, allow excess water to drain, and return the plant to a suitable position.

Avoid disturbing healthy roots more than necessary. After repotting, give the plant stable conditions while it adjusts.

Propagating Philodendron nangaritense

Published, species-specific propagation instructions for P. nangaritense are limited. The usual stem-cutting approach used for Philodendrons is a reasonable method to try, but it should be understood as general genus-level guidance rather than a proven propagation formula for this species.

A viable cutting needs a section of stem with at least one healthy node. A leaf without a node cannot produce a new growing point.

Before cutting, identify where the nodes are and check that the parent plant has enough healthy growth to recover. Use a clean, sharp tool and avoid taking several sections from a small or struggling specimen.

A node-bearing cutting can be placed in a lightly moist, airy propagation medium such as clean sphagnum moss or a suitable propagation mix. Keep it warm, provide filtered light, and maintain moisture without leaving the cutting waterlogged.

Check the cutting periodically for signs of root and shoot development. Do not keep pulling it out to inspect the roots, as repeated disturbance can damage new growth.

There is no reliable fixed number of days in which every cutting will root. The condition of the cutting, temperature, moisture, light and health of the node all affect the process.

Once roots have developed sufficiently to support the cutting, it can be moved into an appropriate potting mix. Make the transition carefully and avoid allowing the young roots to dry out during the change.

For a comparison of the two common rooting approaches, see Philodendron Water Propagation vs. Soil. For an example of selecting and rooting a cutting from another creeping Philodendron, see How to Propagate Philodendron Plowmanii. These are examples for general propagation technique, not proof that every method will perform identically on P. nangaritense.

Normal leaf development or a care problem?

A leaf changing colour or size does not automatically mean something is wrong. Before changing the watering routine or moving the plant, consider which leaves are affected, how quickly the change is happening and whether the roots and stem look healthy.

Changes that can be normal

A new leaf looks lighter or softer: Newly emerging leaves are often folded and more delicate than fully developed foliage. They may look different while opening and gradually become firmer as they mature. Do not judge a new leaf by its appearance before it has finished developing.

One older lower leaf turns yellow slowly: A plant may shed an older leaf as it produces new growth. If only one of the oldest leaves is changing and the rest of the plant looks healthy, this may be normal leaf turnover.

New leaves differ from older leaves: Leaf size and shape can change as Philodendrons mature. Growing conditions also affect leaf development. One smaller leaf does not prove that the plant needs more fertilizer or a larger pot.

Changes that deserve closer attention

Several leaves turn yellow over a short period: Check watering, drainage and the condition of the roots. Multiple leaves changing at once are more concerning than one older leaf gradually ageing.

A leaf wilts while the potting mix is wet: The roots may not be taking up water properly. Check for a dense, waterlogged mix, damaged roots or other signs of root stress rather than adding more water.

New leaves repeatedly emerge small or weak: Review the amount of light, the condition of the roots, the available space and the plant’s general health. Several factors can affect leaf development, so do not assume fertilizer is the answer.

Leaves develop bleached or crispy patches on the window-facing side: Strong direct sunlight may be causing damage. Move the plant away from harsh exposure and allow it to adjust gradually.

New growth is distorted or damaged: Check the emerging leaf for physical injury and inspect the plant for pests such as thrips or mealybugs. Watering problems and difficult growing conditions can also affect new foliage.

The pattern matters more than one isolated symptom. A single imperfect leaf is not enough to diagnose root rot, poor humidity or a nutrient problem.

Common problems and what to check

Yellow leaves

One older leaf turning yellow while the rest of the plant looks healthy may simply be normal leaf ageing.

Several yellow leaves appearing over a short period deserve more attention. Check whether the mix is staying wet, becoming too dry or draining poorly. If the stem or roots also feel soft, inspect for rot.

Do not remove every yellowing leaf before checking what is happening. The pattern of the problem can help you identify its cause.

Brown leaf edges

Brown edges can result from several conditions, including inconsistent watering, dry indoor air, fertilizer salts or exposure to harsh sunlight.

Check the potting mix and the plant’s position before changing several care factors at once. If fertilizer has been applied heavily, salt buildup may be part of the problem.

Pests

Inspect the plant regularly, especially around the undersides of leaves, petioles, stem joints and new growth.

Common indoor pests that can affect Philodendrons include spider mites, thrips, mealybugs and scale insects. Spider mites may cause fine pale speckling, and some infestations also produce delicate webbing. Thrips can leave silvery or damaged patches and may distort young leaves.

For help recognising spider-mite damage, see Spider Mites on Philodendron Verrucosum. The symptoms and treatment principles can help with inspection, although the article concerns a different Philodendron species.

Remember that the natural petiole structures described for P. nangaritense are not mealybugs. Check for actual insects and other signs of feeding before treating the plant.

Isolate an infested plant from nearby houseplants. Identify the pest before choosing a treatment, and use any insecticidal product only when its label permits use on the plant and pest concerned. Follow all label directions and local rules.

If you are unsure what is affecting the plant, Jefrev’s Philodendron Problem Finder can help you work through common symptoms and possible causes. Treat its result as a starting point for inspection, not a substitute for checking the roots, growing conditions and pests directly.

Is Philodendron nangaritense toxic to pets?

Yes. Philodendrons contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals throughout the plant. When plant material is chewed, these needle-like crystals can irritate the mouth and digestive tract.

The ASPCA’s houseplant safety guidance identifies Philodendrons among plants containing insoluble calcium oxalates. The Merck Veterinary Manual also lists Philodendron species as containing these crystals and describes oral irritation, drooling and swelling among possible signs after ingestion.

Keep the plant away from cats, dogs and children who may chew its leaves or stems. Wear gloves when pruning if you are sensitive to plant sap, and avoid touching your eyes after handling cut material.

If a pet chews the plant, contact a veterinarian for advice, particularly if there is marked drooling, mouth swelling, difficulty swallowing or breathing problems. If a person swallows plant material or develops significant irritation, seek guidance from a medical professional or local poison service.

Frequently asked questions

Is Philodendron nangaritense an accepted species?

Yes. Kew’s Plants of the World Online lists Philodendron nangaritense Croat as an accepted species. Its name was formally published in 2021 in Delannay and Croat’s Florula of Araceae from the Cordillera del Cóndor, in Aroideana 44(2), with the species entry at page 430.

Is Philodendron nangaritense native to Ecuador or Peru?

Kew currently lists Ecuador as the native range. The original florula covers the Cordillera del Cóndor region of Ecuador and Peru, and Vannini’s horticultural account describes the plant as occurring along the Ecuador-Peru border. These sources have different scopes, so the regional title of the florula should not be used on its own to claim that Kew records the species as native to both countries.

Is Philodendron nangaritense the same as the fuzzy-petiole Philodendron?

“Fuzzy petiole” is a descriptive nickname sometimes used when discussing this plant. Vannini describes the maroon petioles as densely covered in pale, blunt-tipped tubercles, and his photo caption refers to petiole and midvein scales. The accepted botanical name is Philodendron nangaritense Croat.

Are the white bumps on Philodendron nangaritense mealybugs?

Not necessarily. The plant has naturally occurring raised pale structures on its petioles, as described in Vannini’s horticultural account. These are fixed in place and do not move or produce sticky honeydew.

Mealybugs are wax-covered insects that may appear in cottony clusters, especially around leaf joints and sheltered areas. Look for actual insects and other signs of infestation before treating the plant.

Does Philodendron nangaritense climb or crawl?

It has been described in horticultural observations as creeping and terrestrial to very short hemiepiphytic. It may spread along a surface and can use a nearby support, but it should not automatically be treated as a long-stemmed climber.

What type of pot is best for Philodendron nangaritense?

Choose a container based on the roots and the way the stem is growing. A wider pot may suit a plant spreading horizontally, while a stable container with room for a support may work for one beginning to grow upward. In either case, use a pot with drainage holes and avoid excessive unused potting mix.

Does it need a moss pole?

No. A moss pole is not a basic requirement for this species. Give the plant room to spread first. A flat support may be useful if its growth begins moving upward.

How large can Philodendron nangaritense grow?

Vannini reports cultivated leaf blades exceeding 60 cm. That shows the plant can become substantial, but it does not mean every indoor specimen will reach that size. Growing conditions, plant maturity and the individual specimen all matter.

How often should I water it?

There is no reliable watering interval that suits every home. Check the potting mix and water when the upper portion has begun to dry, making sure the lower root zone is not still saturated. Adjust as conditions change.

What humidity does Philodendron nangaritense need?

There is no established species-specific indoor humidity percentage. Avoid very dry conditions where possible, but do not treat a particular humidity number as a guaranteed requirement. Watch the plant’s growth and check other possible causes when leaf damage appears.

Can I propagate it from a leaf?

A leaf by itself is not enough to produce a new Philodendron plant. Propagation requires a viable stem section with a node. Use a healthy cutting and avoid taking material from a weak or recently stressed plant.

Final care advice

The most useful thing to understand about Philodendron nangaritense is that its natural features and reported growth habit are not the same as those of many familiar climbing Philodendrons. Its unusual pale petiole structures are part of the plant’s natural appearance, not automatically a sign of mealybugs. It may spread horizontally before using a nearby support, so choose a pot after observing its actual direction of growth.

For botanical identity, rely on the formal 2021 Delannay and Croat treatment, Kew’s accepted-name record and the nomenclatural information in IPNI. Use Vannini’s account for its clearly attributed observations of cultivated plants, rather than treating those observations as formal taxonomy or universal care requirements.

For indoor growing, start with bright filtered light, an airy mix and careful watering. Watch how new leaves develop, and distinguish normal changes in older or emerging foliage from patterns that suggest root trouble, pest activity or environmental stress.

With a suitable growing space and steady care, you can give this unusual species a better chance of developing healthy foliage while preserving the features that make it distinctive.